Overview
Ferries leave within a short walk of the railway, so Takamatsu is an easy starting point for travel around the Seto Inland Sea. This Kagawa city on Shikoku's northern coast also deserves time ashore for Ritsurin Garden, a seaside castle site and udon shops among its covered shopping streets.
Ritsurin Garden
Developed over generations as a retreat for the Matsudaira lords, Ritsurin Garden spreads below wooded Mount Shiun. Paths cross small hills and bridges between ponds and carefully pruned pines. Climb Hiraiho Hill for views across the South Pond, then stop for matcha at the waterside Kikugetsutei teahouse. Guided rides in traditional wooden boats offer another view of the garden.
Two railways serve the garden at different stops. JR Ritsurin-Koen-Kitaguchi is about three minutes away on foot, while Kotoden Ritsurin-Koen is about ten minutes away. From the waterfront, take either the JR Kotoku Line or a Kotoden train on the Kotohira Line.
The castle and waterfront
Sea bream swim in the saltwater moats at Tamamo Park, the former grounds of Takamatsu Castle. The moats still draw water from the Seto Inland Sea, an unusual reminder of how closely the castle was tied to the coast. The keep hasn't survived. Its stone base remains, together with historic turrets and the park's gardens.
The park is about three minutes' walk from Takamatsu Station, so a visit doesn't require heading far inland. The ferry port is also nearby, about five minutes on foot from the JR station.
Udon and covered shopping streets
Sanuki udon is the local staple. Try kake udon in hot broth or cold bukkake udon with a smaller amount of concentrated broth. At self-service shops, order at the counter, choose extras such as tempura and return your tray after eating. The sequence varies, so follow the signs or watch the customers ahead of you.
Some noodle-making shops serve food for only a few hours and close once they sell out. If there's a particular place you want to try, check its opening times rather than saving every udon stop for dinner.
Inland from the port, eight connected shopping arcades run for a combined 2.7 kilometres. Marugamemachi's glass-domed square is a recognizable landmark among the shops and restaurants. The covered routes are handy in wet weather, and the southern arcades are close to Kawaramachi Station.
Island trips
Boats from the port connect with Naoshima and Shodoshima. The outward ferry crossing to Naoshima's Miyanoura Port takes about 50 minutes, while high-speed passenger boats take about 30 minutes. The services use separate boarding areas and ticket counters, so check which one you've chosen.
For an art-focused visit, plan museum entry and the return sailing together. Chichu Art Museum uses timed tickets, and advance online booking is advisable. Check museum opening days before selecting your travel date, and allow time to travel between the port and the art sites. One island makes a more manageable day than trying to squeeze several into a single outing.
Yashima's hilltop views
East of the center, Yashima looks across the Seto Inland Sea and is home to Yashimaji, a temple on the Shikoku pilgrimage. The glass-walled Yashimaru visitor center provides sheltered observation spaces at the summit. At the foot of the hill, Shikokumura Museum displays traditional buildings relocated from across Shikoku.
Shuttle buses climb to the summit from JR Yashima and Kotoden Yashima stations. Direct buses from Takamatsu Station also run on weekends and public holidays, with additional daily service during specified summer and winter holiday periods. Check the operating calendar before relying on a direct ride.
Arriving and getting around
Shinkansen passengers change at Okayama for the Marine Liner, which crosses the Great Seto Bridge and reaches the city in about an hour. For local journeys, Takamatsu-Chikko Station serves Kotoden trains near the waterfront. It's separate from the JR station. Change at Kawaramachi for the Shido Line toward Kotoden Yashima.
Direct limousine buses run from Takamatsu Airport to the JR station in about 45 minutes. Kawaramachi also has airport services, but some airport-bound departures bypass it. Check the timetable for your boarding stop and allow for road delays.
Where to stay
Hotels in the Takamatsu Station Area are close to the JR trains and ferry port, so there's no cross-town trip before an early departure. Around Takamatsu-Kawaramachi, you'll be nearer the shopping arcades and restaurants, with Kotoden trains available for local sightseeing.
